Garnet is the birthstone of January

Garnet is the birthstone of January.

The name garnet comes from the latin granatum, meaning “seed like,” because of their resemblance to pomegranate seeds.  The uses of garnet date back to ancient times.  Garnets were popular in ancient Egyptian,  Sumerian and Greek and Roman civilizations.  It was worn to increase bodily strength and endurance, and strengthen survival instincts during crisis, making it an ideal stone to aid during battle.  This stone was held to stimulate blood circulation and keep the circulatory system healthy.  Garnet aids in mental ailments as well such as relieving depression and emotional disharmonies; providing protection from unwanted energies and negative behavior patterns.

The stone has a high refraction of light, and was thought to light up the darkness.  It is said that Noah used a garnet lantern to help him steer his ark through the dark night.  This stone is also said to be one of the twelve stones in the breastplate of the High Priest.

Garnet is also regarded as the friendship stone.  In the past, garnets have been exchanged between parting friends to symbolize their affection and to ensure that they meet again. 

Although garnet’s most common color is red, it also comes in shades of orange, green and color change.  Prices listed below reflect the most common sizes of 2-4 carats in fine quality well cut stones.

Tsavorite (Figure #1) garnet come in either bright, rich or intense green colors.  This stone is the most similar to emerald and also one of the most valuable varieties of garnet. The other variety on the list of most valuable garnet variety is color change garnet.  The color of this stone can change from a blue or green in daylight , to a reddish or purplish pink color in incandescent light.  The only other stone which has such a dramatic color change is alexandrite, one of the most valuable stones.  Both tsavorite  and color change garnets are priced at $1,000 - $1500 per carat.  

Spessartite (Figure #2) garnet come in shades of bright orange to reddish orange.  This is a beautiful stone with exceptional brilliance that sometimes rivals in beauty the extremely valuable padparadscha sapphire (to learn more about the padparadscha sapphire, view our September birthstone article). Price of Spessartite ranges in $300-400 per carat. Stones 4 carats or larger, range $400-800 per carat.  The more intense the orange, the higher the value.  

Hessonite garnet is similar in color to spessartite, but has a brown overtone and costs a fraction.  These two stones can be mistaken so you must make sure you are acquiring the stone from a reputable jeweler or gem dealer. Hessonite ranges from $50-80 per carat.

Rhodolite (Figure #3) come in purplish and reddish pink hues.  This color is highly attractive to many, also what is attractive about this stone is the price at $80-200 per carat.  

Pyrope (Figure #4) is a deep blackish red color.  This variety of garnet rarely comes in large sizes; they are usually sold in smaller sizes under 2 carats which range from $80-150 per carat.  Larger sizes over 2 carat are up to $300 per carat.

Red garnet is the most common variety.  It is a rich red color priced at $30-50 per carat.

Demantoid (Figure #5) is the most valuable variety of garnet.  It is a light green color and one of the most brilliant gemstones that exists.  Its brilliance and fire is similar to that of a diamond, which is where it got its name.  Price of this stone is in the thousands per carat.

Garnet is a fairly durable stone, rating a 7 to 7.5 on the mohs scale, but just like with any other colored stone, should be protected from sharp blows or chemicals.

Pictured is a 6 carat pyrope garnet in 14k gold with diamonds.  Designed by Alex Gulko in 2013.

Stop by to view our finest quality garnets for your next design, or see our collection of garnet jewelry.

By Vicky Gulko

Tanzanite is the Secondary Birthstone of December

Tanzanite is a very rare stone which is only found in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.  The fact it is mined in only one location in the world appeals to many.  Legend says that Masai cattle herders in Tanzania noticed that brown zoisite crystals had turned to a deep bluish purple color after being heated from a lightning strike.  This happened only a little over 40 years ago and its popularity has skyrocketed since.  Due to this stone being a such a recent discovery, there is no history or lore surrounding it.  This gem was originally called blue zoisite, but Tiffany & Co introduced it as tanzanite to honor its Tanzanian origin.  The famed company also declared it to be “the most beautiful blue stone to be discovered in 2000 years.”  This stone took its place as December's secondary birthstone, which is the first and only instance the American Gem Society made an addition to the list since its creation in 1912.

For a while, tanzanite was used as a blue sapphire substitute but it quickly developed a reputation of its own.  The best tanzanite comes in rich deep blue color with overtones of intense violet and sometimes burgundy.  This stone is highly pleochroic which means the color it appears changes depending on the direction of view and lighting.  It will show more blue in fluorescent light while displaying more purple in incandescent light.  The cut also plays a large role in the color it displays.  Cutting the stone on the shorter axis results in a bluer color, but produces a lower yield adding to its higher cost.  While a deep color is the most desired, this stone comes in lighter shades as well, that come with a lighter price tag.  Although rare, tanzanite also comes in greenish shades. 

Tanzanite will look much different in rough form, as all tanzanite must be heat treated to achieve its rich color.  The heat treatment process is very tricky.  More heat makes the color deeper, but it will lose its brilliance if too much heat is applied and in this case is “overcooked.”  On the contrary, if it is not heated enough, it will hold higher brilliance, but the color will be too light.  In the past, tanzanite has been sold on cruises for relatively low prices.  We have had clients that purchased some of these tanzanites and bring them in for appraisal.  While the color was dark, they were overcooked, making them very dull with little brilliance.

Unlike many other stones, prices of tanzanite don’t increase in price with higher carat.  Finest quality stones 2-6 carats cost $700-$1000 per carat, larger stones are still within this price range.  This price range depends on quality of cut.

Tanzanite rates a 6 to 7 on the mohs scale.  Precautions should be made against hard blows to the stone as it can crack or break.  It can be used in any jewelry, although gentle wear is advised when placed in rings and not recommended for everyday wear.

Pictured are fine tanzanites 4-6 carats set in 18k gold with diamonds.  Also pictured is a loose 9.8 carat tanzanite which is available for sale.

By Vicky Gulko

Blue Zircon is the Birthstone of December

Whose brilliance rivals them all? Yes you may be thinking yourself, but that isn’t the type of brilliance we are talking about here.  We are talking about blue zircon, whose brilliance rivals all other colored stones and is the only stone whose brilliance comes close to diamonds.  Blue zircon is the primary birthstone of December, with tanzanite (which will be featured in our next article) and turquoise being the secondary stones.

There is sometimes confusion between zircon and cubic zirconia, due to similar names.  They however are nothing close to the same.  Cubic zirconia is a cheap synthetic stone that is used in low end jewelry and as a diamond substitute.  Zircon is a natural and highly prized stone used in high end jewelry.  Due to this confusion, zircon has had a shaky reputation in early years; except among gem collectors that know their true value.  A Beverly Hills gem dealer said he knows that half the zircons he sells to jewelers never make it to their showcases; they’re buying the stones to keep for themselves.

George Kunz, who was Tiffany’s vice president and main gem buyer for years was a zircon enthusiast himself.  Around the turn of the century he proposed marketing zircon as “starlite” instead, due to its high brilliance.  Although the name was short-lived, this was the most notable attempt at putting the confusion and doubt around the stone to rest in gem trade history.

Gemologists aren’t the only ones so interested in zircon, geologists also have a strong eye for zircon, as it is the oldest stone, with specimens from Australia dating back over 4.4 billion years!

Zircon comes in many different colors, including pink, yellow, red, orange, green, brown and colorless, but blue zircon is the most highly prized and sought after.  Most blue zircon is heat treated to improve color.  Blue zircon comes in many pleasing shades of blue; it was no wonder it was used so frequently in Victorian jewelry, especially in the 1800s.

Zircon has many healing properties.  It has a calming effect on allergies and asthma, as well as relief from other respiratory problems.  It helps improve memory and intellectual abilities, promote common sense, provide aid in overcoming losses, and heal mental disturbances.  It can also put energy into sharp focus, bringing confidence and strength to its owner.  Zircon is said to be a highly energetic and spiritual stone, that will help you love yourself and others, and establish a more compassionate, peaceful and pure way of thinking.  It works within all the chakras to stimulate the movement of sluggish or blocked energy.  Zircon is a grounding stone, that helps with organization and working more effectively towards your goals.  They are known as a “stone of virtue” as they help balance the virtuous aspects within you.  Zircon also has other balancing properties, including emotional, physical and spiritual balance.

Despite its beauty and rarity, we believe this stone is under priced, even after it’s double in price over the last three years.  Fine 2-10 carat blue zircon range $200-$400 per carat,  10 or more carat stones are $400-$700 per carat.

The best zircon come from Cambodia, but there are also deposits in Australia, Brazil, Korea, Thailand, Madagascar and Sri Lanka.  Zircon is rated 6.5 to 7 on the mohs scale.  It can be worn in any jewelry, but care should be taken to avoid scratches or hard blows to the stone, as the facets may abrade.  This is a very challenging stone to cut properly.  With a poor cut, it wont display the amazing brilliance the stone is known for.

We are proud of our great collection of finest loose and set blue zircon stones that we have collected over the years.  Our sources for this stone are the best available today.

The pieces pictured contain fine quality blue zircon in 4-8 carats with white, black and blue diamond in white and yellow gold.  Made by Alex Gulko in 2012/2013.

By Vicky Gulko

Topaz is the Birthstone of November

Precious topaz is the birthstone of November.

Topaz has been a significant gemstone throughout history.  Egyptians believed topaz got its color from the sun god, whom they called Ra, which made the stone highly prized among them.  The Romans believed topaz got its coloring from the sun as well, which comes as no surprise given fiery range of colors it is found in.  It is possible that this gem’s close association with the sun also stems from the belief that its mystical properties were stronger at different times of the month; particularly closer to a full moon.   

During the plague of 1348, a number of victims were cured after being visited by Pope Clement the Sixth while he was wearing a huge topaz ring.  Reporters from this time claim that it was the topaz that did the job, not Pope Clement.

The ancient Indian folk medicine, Ayurveda, recognizes topaz's curative powers; helpful in building heart tone, revitalizing circulation, preventing wrinkles and varicose veins, and keeping the skin young and fresh.  It has also been reported to eliminate fear and insomnia.  In China, topaz was hung on the doors of houses in the belief that the stone absorbed energy from the sun and transmitted health and serenity to all the members of the family.

There has been much confusion surrounding the name topaz for many years. The term “topaz” has loosely been used to describe a yellow gem, so at times citrine (see below), which is part of the quartz family, was described as topaz.  Due to this issue, the distinction of precious (Figure #1) and imperial (Figure #2) topaz was made.  Imperial topaz refers to stones with rich golden, deep pink, peach and reddish-orange colors.  The less intense but still beautiful yellow, orange and medium golden hues are referred to as precious topaz.

The term "imperial" stems from the discovery of pink topaz (Figure #3) in Russia during the 19th century.  The stone was instantly so coveted that ownership was restricted to the Czar, his family and those whom he gave it as a gift.  Pink topaz today is the most valuable variety.

Blue topaz (Figure #4) is created through irradiation and is one of the least expensive stones.  While there are natural blue topaz, they are extremely rare; the majority are irradiated.

While there are topaz deposits around the world including Russia, Sri Lanka, the United States, China and Pakistan, the best quality come from Brazil.  The increased worldwide demand for this stone, as well as Brazil’s recent economic boom had caused prices for this stone to more than double.  Prices for imperial topaz has increased 60-70% since 2007.

Given these increases, you may be wondering exactly what these prices are today.  Blue topaz is the least expensive, ranging from $20-40 per carat.  Following this is a large jump to precious topaz, which is around $200-$400 per carat.  The prized imperial topaz goes for $500-$1000 per carat, while the most valuable pink topaz falls in the $1000- $1500 per carat range.  If an imperial topaz is being sold for a very low price, you must be careful as it may have gone through special treatments which are reversible, causing it to lose its color very quickly.  

Citrine is the alternative birthstone of November.  Although it doesn't match the beauty of topaz, it costs much less; around $20- $60 per carat. 

Topaz has a mohs rating of 8, making it a very hard stone.  However, it should still be protected from hard knocks, as it may crack or split due to its perfect basal cleavage, which makes it vulnerable to breakage.

Pictured is a 6.9 carat imperial topaz pendant in white and yellow 18k gold with an emerald and diamonds, designed by Alex Gulko in 2011. 

By Vicky Gulko

Pink Tourmaline is the Alternative Birthstone of October

Tourmaline is the alternative birthstone of October, particularly pink tourmaline.

You can find this incredibly unique stone in almost any color, making it a prized stone in jewelry making throughout history.  The name tourmaline comes from the Sinhalese term "turmali" which means "mixed colors."  Tourmaline ranges from red to green and from blue to yellow, often with two or more colors in one stone called watermelon (Figure #1).  Some tourmalines even change color depending on the light source.

According to Brazilian lore, Tourmalines were brought to earth by extraterrestrial beings of higher intelligence.  This stone has been said to have many healing properties, including cell regeneration when there is a wound or scar tissue; even burns can be cured.  This stone has even been said to make products, such as wrinkle cream or moisturizer more effective if it is left in the preparation.  Rubelite (red variety) tourmalines hold special therapeutic qualities.  They supposedly help increase awareness of your body and free you from impulsive behavior.  Indicolite (blue) is believed to keep off lung diseases.  Yellow tourmaline will serve as an aid when you are sad or depressed,  while polychrome (multi-colored) stones will actually make you more extroverted and sociable.

Tourmaline was the preferred stone of Rene Lalique, master French jewelry designer and one of the finest and most important exponents of the Art Nouveau style in vogue around the turn of the century.

Now let's talk about specifics; different varieties and their prices. Prices of all tourmalines for the last four years have almost doubled due to increased demand from China and production cost in Brazil.

Verdilite (Figure #2):  These are regular green tourmalines that are the most common and range $100-300 per carat.  

Chrome tourmaline (Figure #3): These are a very vivid grass green color and range in price from $400-$700 per carat.  Chrome tourmaline is very similar in color to emerald, and can be used as an alternative to emerald while still achieving a similar look. 

Indicolite tourmaline (Figure #4): This variety is green with a bluish hue, and range from $400-$800 per carat.

There are also pink and red varieties of tourmaline.  

Rubelite tourmaline (Figure #5): This variety has a very hot intense pink color that contain a lot of red.  These are only called rubelite of it continues to display the same intense ruby red color as the light source changes.  Those that change in different light sources are called pink tourmalines.  Pink tourmalines (Figure #6) range from $150-$350 per carat, while rubelite ranges in price from $400-$800 per carat.

Paraiba tourmaline (Figure #7):  This is a very special, unique and extremely rare stone.  It is the most valuable, and comes in a very bright vivid sea blue (see picture).  This fairly new stone was discovered in 1987 in a mine in the village Paraiba, of Brazil.  Paraiba tourmalines from this area have since been depleted and cost anywhere from $20,000-$70,000 per carat making it not only the most valuable tourmaline, but one of the most valuable gems.  There is a new source in Africa, specifically Mozambique, that come in lighter colors and range $3,000-$15,000 in price per carat depending on intensity of color and clarity.  In 2002, Christie's Hong Kong sold a deep pure-blue 8.90 carat Paraiba tourmaline for $30,000 per carat ($270,100 total).  Today, this stone would be worth significantly more.

Tourmaline rates a 7-7.5 on the Mohs scale, making it a very durable stone for everyday wear. 

Today, primary sources for tourmaline are Brazil, various countries in Africa including Mozambique, Namibia, Tanzania, Madagascar and parts of Asia including Russia.

Pictured is a 5.1 carat certified Paraiba tourmaline with diamonds in platinum; designed by Alex Gulko in 2010.

By Viktoriya Gulko

Opal is the Birthstone of October

Opal is the birthstone of October. 

Opal is an incredibly unique stone that has been named the queen of gems by the ancient Romans because it contains all the colors of the other gems.  The name comes from the Sanskrit term "upala", which means "precious stone."  

Opals have historically been considered a very lucky and powerful stone.   It was said to contain the powers of all the other stones, due to its array of colors.  Opal is a stone of inspiration, it brings deep emotions to the forefront, releasing inhibitions and granting its wearer increased confidence and openness. It also helps to focus mental capabilities and provide motivation and energy.  This has been said to be a very spiritual stone, it wards off the evil eye and brings happy dreams while blocking bad dreams from your psyche.   

In 1872, a new source for opal was discovered in Australia.  These opals were much more beautiful than those discovered before and has since then dominated the world markets, and are what pushed an increasingly high demand for this stone.   The incredible display of colors has been a mystery until relatively recently.   With the use of an electron microscope, studies show that opals consist of transparent spheres of silica that are tightly packed.  The spaces between these silica spheres contain only air and water. In precious opal these spheres are uniform in size and precisely packed into an orderly three dimensional arrangement.   The diffraction of light and iridescence that creates the beautiful look of opal that we know today only occurs if the silica spheres are of the correct size and are precisely arranged.  In lesser quality opal the silica spheres are poorly shaped, of incorrect size, and/or not arranged in a regular pattern.  This stone can form only when an undisturbed space in a rock holds a clean solution of silica from which water is slowly removed over thousands of years.

Opals vary according to transparency and body color.   Prices are very subjective, as no two opals are exactly the same.  

White opal (Figure #1): Translucent stones with color play against a white body color, these are most common. Milky white stones with little color play are used in budget jewelry, while finer quality with higher color play can go for $200 to $300 dollars per carat.

Black opal (Figure #2): Stones with a very vivid play of color and iridescence against a black or dark body color.   These highly prized stones are a fairly new discovery and were unknown before the discovery of the legendary Lightning Ridge opal field in Australia in 1903.  This discovery has caused the demand of this stone to skyrocket.   Today top grade black opal can sell for $15,000 a carat.   Some exceptional stones have even sold for $20,000 a carat. 

Crystal opal (Figure #3): This stone is white and very transparent. It's more valuable than white opal and has a lot of bright colors and iridescence.  The difference between white and crystal opal is white opals have a milky look, where crystal opals are more transparent and have more vibrant color play.  Crystal opal is similar to black opal but is light and more transparent.   In its highest qualities, it is valued at more than $2,500 per carat. 

Fire opal (Figure #4): These stones are transparent or semitransparent, resembling gelatin, with orange, yellow, or red body color with or without play of color.  They are sometimes called Mexican opals because most of the best fire opals are found in volcanic rock in Mexico.  This stone is commonly faceted due to its transparency.  The most prized fire opals are reddish orange, transparent and have play of color within the stone; this quality can retail for as much as $300 per carat.  Lower quality stones that are translucent and yellowish or brownish in color may sell for around $5 per carat. 

Boulder opal (Figure #5): Found in rock formations, specifically ironstone.  The opal often forms in small layers within fractures on the surface of the rock.   Rare gem quality boulder opal can sell for $3,000 to $20,000 per piece, but you can get attractive stones for a few hundred dollars.  

Doublet opal (Figure #6): This is a manmade combination of a small layer of natural crystal opal glued on top of ironstone.  Against the dark surface, it looks like black opal.   Doublet opals are significantly less expensive than black opal, but achieves a similar look.  The main difference is doublets are almost always flat, but black opals are domed and smooth with no facets.  This cut is called cabochon; almost all natural opals are cut this way.  These range in price from $200 to $1,000 per piece.  

Opal has a mohs scale of 7, but you must be careful with this stone due to its chemical structure.  This stone is very sensitive to sudden change in temperature. Never clean your opal in an ultrasonic cleanser as it could crack the opal. It is recommended that your opal be worn frequently, the moisture from the wearers skin helps preserve the stone and prevent it from cracking. 

With its multiple benefits and unique beauty, It is no wonder opals have been prized for centuries. What do you find most interesting about this stone? Which variation of opal strikes you the most? 

Pictured is a 5.6 carat natural black opal from lightning ridge in platinum and diamonds.  Ring was designed by Alex Gulko in 2009. 

By Viktoriya Gulko

Sapphire is the birthstone of September

Sapphire is the birthstone of September.

Sapphires are among the most valuable precious gems. The price ranges from a couple hundred to several thousand dollars per carat. They come in all colors of the rainbow, the most valuable being blue, pink and orange, and blue sapphires are the most popular.  The highest quality sapphires are sourced from Sri Lanka; these are called Ceylon sapphires.  Sapphires from Burma are also of high quality but are very rare. Today many come from Madagascar and are generally dark in color.  Some are sourced from Thailand, but have a grey overtone without much brilliance.  This gem is also found in the United States, in the state of Montana but lack a  rich blue color.  Quality is based on color and brilliance.  The closer to a vivid royal blue, with high brilliance, the higher the quality and value.  Some orange sapphires are called padparadscha sapphires, the term is derived from the Sinhalese word for lotus flower.  Padparadscha sapphires are only found in Sri Lanka, and are the rarest of all sapphires.

There has been a recent trend for colored diamonds in engagement rings.  Colored diamonds, such as pink diamonds can come at a very high cost.  Colored sapphires are an excellent substitute.  We have created many engagement rings using colored sapphires to better fit the clients budget.  Sapphires are highly durable stones, they are rated 9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 rating of diamond, and 7-8 of other stones, making them ideal for everyday wear.

Ancient folklore claims the sapphire will give its wearer spiritual enlightenment and inner peace.  In the Middle Ages sapphires were used as an antidote to poison and thought to treat colic and rheumatism as well as ease mental illness.  Members of royalty wore sapphires around their necks to protect from envy, poison and harm. 

Sapphires have been used among royalty for centuries.  A very famous sapphire from recent years is princess Diana’s engagement ring which contains a 18 carat blue Ceylon sapphire surrounded by white diamonds in white gold.  This ring is now worn by Kate Middleton.  Other famous icons that have had sapphire engagement rings include Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Crawford and Jean Harlowe.

There are many different treatments being used today on sapphires.  The only accepted form of treatment for fine jewelry is heat treatment.  All other treatments significantly reduce it’s value.  Recently the beryllium treatment is becoming common, especially in stones coming from Asia.  This is when beryllium is added to sapphires to enhance or change the color.  Other treatments include irradiation, where the color of the stone is changed at a molecular level.  Fracture fills are a temporary and unstable method to make cracks and inclusions less noticeable. This treatment can be removed revealing large and unattractive inclusions it has been masking.  Surface dyes are used to change the color of a stone which also can be easily removed.  Often this treatment is used to pass off an impostor gemstone as a sapphire.  These treatments often go undisclosed so it is important to buy sapphires from a reliable source.

Now let's talk about one of the most important factors; the cut.  There is no standard “ideal” cut for sapphires as there are for diamonds.  Each sapphire is cut individually to bring out the best possible color and brilliance.  Due to this individualized cutting, they generally are not graded by gem laboratories.  As a result jewelers set their own standards for quality which they determine based on color and cut.  There are many stones that are cut too deep or too shallow.  A shallow or bad cut can cause a  very common window effect where you can see through the stone.  If a cut is too deep you are paying more for the weight.  Cut is very important for the overall look which is why we only pick perfectly cut stones. 

By Viktoriya Gulko

The Power of Custom Design "Before and After"

Do you have jewelry that you have inherited or purchased years ago that is outdated or you don’t enjoy wearing?  You can take that jewelry and sell it at a pawn shop for scrap value, or keep the value of the stones and metal and turn it into a beautiful piece of jewelry.  Custom design gives you the opportunity to create something new that fits your style that you will cherish for many years to come. 

One of our clients recently came in with three rings all given by relatives.  The rings were outdated and she didn't enjoy wearing them, but they still held high sentimental value for her.  We were able to combine all the stones from her old rings into a new design that she can enjoy wearing, yet still hold the same sentimental value. 

To celebrate their anniversary, our clients wanted to replace their original engagement ring using their original 0.50 ct marquise diamond.  Our goal was to create a dramatic and substantial looking contemporary ring.  Their concern was that the original diamond not be overpowered by a bolder setting.  The solution was to create a design using pave-set round diamonds under the marquise to achieve the illusion of a larger diamond and balancing out the ring.

A client came in with a precious imperial topaz that she has gotten reset twice, but was never satisfied with the results.  She had always dreamed about having a hand crafted antique style ring, so we designed a unique Victorian style ring for her to showcase her stone.  The stone was not perfectly cut and had a window effect.  We were able to mask this window effect through the use of the setting.  She not only was able to get the antique ring she had always wanted, but was also able to finally enjoy her stones in a design she loved.

Peridot is the Birthstone of August

Peridot is the birthstone of August.

While the exact origin of the name peridot is unknown, many sources state it comes from the Arabic word farodat, meaning gem.  Peridot is one of the few gems that come in one distinctive color.  The most valuable is an intense deep green color.  Peridot is known to make the wearer look younger and more beautiful. 

Peridot was one of Cleopatra's favorite stones.  While many believe Cleopatra's favorite stone was emerald, there is an abundance of archeological evidence that points to what was thought to be emeralds were actually peridot.  Ancient Egyptians called them "gem of the sun" because of its high brilliance under the sun.

Peridot was considered more beautiful than emerald.  It is widely believed that this stone was so beautiful, it was used as the second stone in the high priest's breastplate for the second temple of Jerusalem built in 515 BC, with ruby being the first.

This gemstone was said to glow at night. Ancient minors would search in the evening or night when they said it was easiest to find.  Romans called peridot "evening emerald" because they stayed vibrant and bright under all lighting conditions and did not darken under night sky.

Some have the perception that peridot is not a good stone because they haven't seen it in beautiful quality.  As soon as our clients discover the peridot we carry, they fall in love with the stone forever.

While almost all gemstones are formed in the earth’s crust, peridot is formed much deeper, in the mantle. The only other stone formed in the mantle is diamond.  Peridot is sourced from many places such as China, Burma, and Arizona, but the best come from Pakistan. Although peridot from Pakistan is becoming increasingly rare, we only source ours from this region.

The stone is very transparent, so picking a very clean stone is important as inclusions are more visible than in other stones.

Peridot is a relatively inexpensive stone, for a fine quality stone sized between 3-10 carats you would typically pay $200-500 per carat.  Though finest quality stones from Pakistan over 6 carats are rare.

The pendant pictured is a 13 carat Pakistani peridot in 18k gold with diamonds.  The earrings each contain a 4 carat  Pakistani peridot in 14k gold.

By Viktoriya Gulko

July Birthstone

 

Ruby is the birthstone of July.  

The name comes from the Latin word rubeus, which means red. Rubies have been celebrated in the bible and ancient Sanskrit writings as the most precious stone.  Rubies in Sanskrit were called ratnaraj, which means "King of the precious gems." According to Hindu lore, the vibrant glowing red color of ruby is caused by eternal flames burning within them that cannot be extinguished.  It was claimed that the owner of a ruby was guaranteed a peaceful and harmonious life, as well as brought luck and good fortune.  Rubies are also legendary symbols of everlasting love.  Rubies are very hard and resilient gems, second only to diamonds.

The most valuable rubies are sourced from Burma, but all high quality rubies have been depleted in this area.  The brightest and most valuable red color is called "pigeon blood".  Today many rubies are sourced from Madagascar but their color and brilliance does not come close to Burmese rubies and are worth much less.

A 32.08 carat ruby ring was sold for $6,742,440 at Lily Safra's jewelry auction in 2012.  The auctioned price was the highest ever price for a ruby sold at auction.

Rubies come from the family of corundum.  This is the same family as sapphire.  The intensity and brightness of the color is what differentiates pink sapphires from rubies.  Some dark pink or red sapphires are called rubies but they are not true rubies according to GIA (Gemological Institute of America) standards.  When you buy rubies you must be careful that it is not a sapphire which are less valuable.

Today a lot of rubies have many different treatments.  The only acceptable treatment for fine jewelry is heat treatment.  All other treatments are highly disapproved of and significantly reduce the value of the stone.  Such treatments, for instance include inserting glass pieces to fill up small gaps left after the cut.  There are also many synthetics on today's market.  Falsifications can only be identified by a professional.  This is another reason why it is crucial to buy rubies from an expert.

Pictured is a fine 3 carat Burmese certified pigeon blood ruby surrounded by diamonds and rubies in 18k gold.

By Viktoriya Gulko

Alex named one of the best Ukrainian Jewelers by the Fund Faberge

 

We recently discovered that Alex Gulko is named one of the best Ukrainian jewelers by the reputable and widely known Fund Faberge in St. Petersburg based on a collection he created years ago in Ukraine. Parts of the collection were included in international exhibitions held in Hungary and Yugoslavia and state exhibitions held in Ukraine. Some of the pieces were featured in catalogs and posters of these exhibitions.

Several pieces of this collection were purchased for display by the most famous museum in Ukraine, The National Ukrainian Museum of Historical Treasures. This museum holds the largest collection of artifacts made from precious metals and stones including work created by old Scythians tribes, historical Ukrainian goldsmiths, 17th-19th century Russian jewelers, and modern Ukrainian jewelers. The museum also puts on exhibitions all around the world. In the late 80’s the museum began displaying contemporary jewelry. The museum has a page on their website dedicated to the best jewelers they have featured. There are only six artists on this page, Alex being one of them.

Part of Alex’s collection was brought to the United States and is currently displayed in his store.

By Viktoriya Gulko

Fund Faberge list:
http://skurlov.blogspot.com/2011/12/2012.html
See: "ГУЛЬКО Александр Абрамович - родился в 1955 г. в Киев"

Museum page of contemporary jewelry: http://miku.org.ua/ru/yvelirnoe_iskusstvo/ukraina/ukrainskie_mastera-yveliri_70-90.html

More about the museum: http://www.wumag.kiev.ua/index2.php?param=pgs20062%2F20

 

June Birthstone

Alexandrite is the birthstone of June. 

Alexandrite is one of the most if not the most unique, rare and valuable stone, known as the color changing stone.  The color of the stone changes drastically depending on what lighting it is under.  The more drastic the color change the higher the quality.  In its finest qualities, alexandrite looks green in sunlight, and purplish red under incandescent lights.

The gem was first discovered in the Ural Mountains of Russia in 1830 on the 12th birthday of the Czar Alexander II.  Due to its representation of both Russian imperial colors- red and green- it became the national stone of tsarist Russia.  In Russia, alexandrite is considered to be of very good omen.  It brings balance in the interaction between the physical and spiritual world.  It opens the crown chakra, which gives access to the healing energy and love from the universe.  It is also said to strengthen intuition, creativity and encourage romance.

Prices for natural alexandrite start at $1,500 per carat and can go over $20,000 per carat depending on size and quality.  Alex is currently working on a ring for a client with a very fine quality alexandrite.  Alex was able to acquire the stone from a close source at a gem show resulting in thousands of dollars in savings for his client.  This stone holds the same color changing qualities of the finest alexandrite.

Today the finest alexandrite stones are sourced from Brazil.  There are alexandrite stones which come from Asia and Africa that are lesser quality and retail at a much lower price point.

Alexandrite is the most valuable and exotic variety of chrysoberyl.  Not all color changing chrysoberyl can be called an alexandrite.  When buying an alexandrite, you must be careful that it is not mistaken for a regular color changing chrysoberyl, which displays different color change.

Pictured is a very fine Russian Alexandrite.  To the right is a fine 2 carat Brazilian alexandrite ring with diamonds in platinum.

By Viktoriya Gulko

May Gemstone

The Emerald is the birthstone for May and is regarded as a stone for luck and good fortune.

The Emerald is truly one of the most fascinating gemstones, sometimes surpassing diamonds in value.
It’s a stone in which inclusions do not detract from its value. The French refer to the inclusions as “jardin” or garden, comparing inclusions to tender green plants in a stone born from great turbulence deep in the earth.
The rich and intense green hue symbolizes harmony, love of nature, spring, and the regeneration of life.
The Romans considered green the color of Venus, the Goddess of beauty and love.
The ancients believed the stone to have many healing powers. Some of the oldest mines were exploited by the Egyptian pharaohs around 3,ooo and 1,500 B.C. later known as “Cleopatra’s mines” because she was an avid collector.
Because Emerald has been held in such high esteem for centuries, many are seen in museums and private collections.

The best quality Emeralds are mined in Columbia where these stones have enjoyed a rich history prized by the Aztecs and Incas.
A lot of stones today are coming from Zambia. Alex prefers Columbian or Brazilian Stones where the color and value is a more traditional intense green, over the Zambian stones which have a tint of blue.

Although the Emerald itself is quite durable, the Garden of inclusions in each stone can make them delicate.
They are treated with natural oils, and paraffin’s to enhance the clarity of the stone and strengthen them.
Because of these properties the Emerald is considered a good stone for a unique piece of jewelry or statement piece. It is not recommended for an engagement ring.

Please stop by and learn more about this fascinating stone, and the many designs Alex could create for you!