Garnet is the birthstone of January

Garnet is the birthstone of January.

The name garnet comes from the latin granatum, meaning “seed like,” because of their resemblance to pomegranate seeds.  The uses of garnet date back to ancient times.  Garnets were popular in ancient Egyptian,  Sumerian and Greek and Roman civilizations.  It was worn to increase bodily strength and endurance, and strengthen survival instincts during crisis, making it an ideal stone to aid during battle.  This stone was held to stimulate blood circulation and keep the circulatory system healthy.  Garnet aids in mental ailments as well such as relieving depression and emotional disharmonies; providing protection from unwanted energies and negative behavior patterns.

The stone has a high refraction of light, and was thought to light up the darkness.  It is said that Noah used a garnet lantern to help him steer his ark through the dark night.  This stone is also said to be one of the twelve stones in the breastplate of the High Priest.

Garnet is also regarded as the friendship stone.  In the past, garnets have been exchanged between parting friends to symbolize their affection and to ensure that they meet again. 

Although garnet’s most common color is red, it also comes in shades of orange, green and color change.  Prices listed below reflect the most common sizes of 2-4 carats in fine quality well cut stones.

Tsavorite (Figure #1) garnet come in either bright, rich or intense green colors.  This stone is the most similar to emerald and also one of the most valuable varieties of garnet. The other variety on the list of most valuable garnet variety is color change garnet.  The color of this stone can change from a blue or green in daylight , to a reddish or purplish pink color in incandescent light.  The only other stone which has such a dramatic color change is alexandrite, one of the most valuable stones.  Both tsavorite  and color change garnets are priced at $1,000 - $1500 per carat.  

Spessartite (Figure #2) garnet come in shades of bright orange to reddish orange.  This is a beautiful stone with exceptional brilliance that sometimes rivals in beauty the extremely valuable padparadscha sapphire (to learn more about the padparadscha sapphire, view our September birthstone article). Price of Spessartite ranges in $300-400 per carat. Stones 4 carats or larger, range $400-800 per carat.  The more intense the orange, the higher the value.  

Hessonite garnet is similar in color to spessartite, but has a brown overtone and costs a fraction.  These two stones can be mistaken so you must make sure you are acquiring the stone from a reputable jeweler or gem dealer. Hessonite ranges from $50-80 per carat.

Rhodolite (Figure #3) come in purplish and reddish pink hues.  This color is highly attractive to many, also what is attractive about this stone is the price at $80-200 per carat.  

Pyrope (Figure #4) is a deep blackish red color.  This variety of garnet rarely comes in large sizes; they are usually sold in smaller sizes under 2 carats which range from $80-150 per carat.  Larger sizes over 2 carat are up to $300 per carat.

Red garnet is the most common variety.  It is a rich red color priced at $30-50 per carat.

Demantoid (Figure #5) is the most valuable variety of garnet.  It is a light green color and one of the most brilliant gemstones that exists.  Its brilliance and fire is similar to that of a diamond, which is where it got its name.  Price of this stone is in the thousands per carat.

Garnet is a fairly durable stone, rating a 7 to 7.5 on the mohs scale, but just like with any other colored stone, should be protected from sharp blows or chemicals.

Pictured is a 6 carat pyrope garnet in 14k gold with diamonds.  Designed by Alex Gulko in 2013.

Stop by to view our finest quality garnets for your next design, or see our collection of garnet jewelry.

By Vicky Gulko

Tanzanite is the Secondary Birthstone of December

Tanzanite is a very rare stone which is only found in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.  The fact it is mined in only one location in the world appeals to many.  Legend says that Masai cattle herders in Tanzania noticed that brown zoisite crystals had turned to a deep bluish purple color after being heated from a lightning strike.  This happened only a little over 40 years ago and its popularity has skyrocketed since.  Due to this stone being a such a recent discovery, there is no history or lore surrounding it.  This gem was originally called blue zoisite, but Tiffany & Co introduced it as tanzanite to honor its Tanzanian origin.  The famed company also declared it to be “the most beautiful blue stone to be discovered in 2000 years.”  This stone took its place as December's secondary birthstone, which is the first and only instance the American Gem Society made an addition to the list since its creation in 1912.

For a while, tanzanite was used as a blue sapphire substitute but it quickly developed a reputation of its own.  The best tanzanite comes in rich deep blue color with overtones of intense violet and sometimes burgundy.  This stone is highly pleochroic which means the color it appears changes depending on the direction of view and lighting.  It will show more blue in fluorescent light while displaying more purple in incandescent light.  The cut also plays a large role in the color it displays.  Cutting the stone on the shorter axis results in a bluer color, but produces a lower yield adding to its higher cost.  While a deep color is the most desired, this stone comes in lighter shades as well, that come with a lighter price tag.  Although rare, tanzanite also comes in greenish shades. 

Tanzanite will look much different in rough form, as all tanzanite must be heat treated to achieve its rich color.  The heat treatment process is very tricky.  More heat makes the color deeper, but it will lose its brilliance if too much heat is applied and in this case is “overcooked.”  On the contrary, if it is not heated enough, it will hold higher brilliance, but the color will be too light.  In the past, tanzanite has been sold on cruises for relatively low prices.  We have had clients that purchased some of these tanzanites and bring them in for appraisal.  While the color was dark, they were overcooked, making them very dull with little brilliance.

Unlike many other stones, prices of tanzanite don’t increase in price with higher carat.  Finest quality stones 2-6 carats cost $700-$1000 per carat, larger stones are still within this price range.  This price range depends on quality of cut.

Tanzanite rates a 6 to 7 on the mohs scale.  Precautions should be made against hard blows to the stone as it can crack or break.  It can be used in any jewelry, although gentle wear is advised when placed in rings and not recommended for everyday wear.

Pictured are fine tanzanites 4-6 carats set in 18k gold with diamonds.  Also pictured is a loose 9.8 carat tanzanite which is available for sale.

By Vicky Gulko