Topaz is the Birthstone of November

Precious topaz is the birthstone of November.

Topaz has been a significant gemstone throughout history.  Egyptians believed topaz got its color from the sun god, whom they called Ra, which made the stone highly prized among them.  The Romans believed topaz got its coloring from the sun as well, which comes as no surprise given fiery range of colors it is found in.  It is possible that this gem’s close association with the sun also stems from the belief that its mystical properties were stronger at different times of the month; particularly closer to a full moon.   

During the plague of 1348, a number of victims were cured after being visited by Pope Clement the Sixth while he was wearing a huge topaz ring.  Reporters from this time claim that it was the topaz that did the job, not Pope Clement.

The ancient Indian folk medicine, Ayurveda, recognizes topaz's curative powers; helpful in building heart tone, revitalizing circulation, preventing wrinkles and varicose veins, and keeping the skin young and fresh.  It has also been reported to eliminate fear and insomnia.  In China, topaz was hung on the doors of houses in the belief that the stone absorbed energy from the sun and transmitted health and serenity to all the members of the family.

There has been much confusion surrounding the name topaz for many years. The term “topaz” has loosely been used to describe a yellow gem, so at times citrine (see below), which is part of the quartz family, was described as topaz.  Due to this issue, the distinction of precious (Figure #1) and imperial (Figure #2) topaz was made.  Imperial topaz refers to stones with rich golden, deep pink, peach and reddish-orange colors.  The less intense but still beautiful yellow, orange and medium golden hues are referred to as precious topaz.

The term "imperial" stems from the discovery of pink topaz (Figure #3) in Russia during the 19th century.  The stone was instantly so coveted that ownership was restricted to the Czar, his family and those whom he gave it as a gift.  Pink topaz today is the most valuable variety.

Blue topaz (Figure #4) is created through irradiation and is one of the least expensive stones.  While there are natural blue topaz, they are extremely rare; the majority are irradiated.

While there are topaz deposits around the world including Russia, Sri Lanka, the United States, China and Pakistan, the best quality come from Brazil.  The increased worldwide demand for this stone, as well as Brazil’s recent economic boom had caused prices for this stone to more than double.  Prices for imperial topaz has increased 60-70% since 2007.

Given these increases, you may be wondering exactly what these prices are today.  Blue topaz is the least expensive, ranging from $20-40 per carat.  Following this is a large jump to precious topaz, which is around $200-$400 per carat.  The prized imperial topaz goes for $500-$1000 per carat, while the most valuable pink topaz falls in the $1000- $1500 per carat range.  If an imperial topaz is being sold for a very low price, you must be careful as it may have gone through special treatments which are reversible, causing it to lose its color very quickly.  

Citrine is the alternative birthstone of November.  Although it doesn't match the beauty of topaz, it costs much less; around $20- $60 per carat. 

Topaz has a mohs rating of 8, making it a very hard stone.  However, it should still be protected from hard knocks, as it may crack or split due to its perfect basal cleavage, which makes it vulnerable to breakage.

Pictured is a 6.9 carat imperial topaz pendant in white and yellow 18k gold with an emerald and diamonds, designed by Alex Gulko in 2011. 

By Vicky Gulko

Pink Tourmaline is the Alternative Birthstone of October

Tourmaline is the alternative birthstone of October, particularly pink tourmaline.

You can find this incredibly unique stone in almost any color, making it a prized stone in jewelry making throughout history.  The name tourmaline comes from the Sinhalese term "turmali" which means "mixed colors."  Tourmaline ranges from red to green and from blue to yellow, often with two or more colors in one stone called watermelon (Figure #1).  Some tourmalines even change color depending on the light source.

According to Brazilian lore, Tourmalines were brought to earth by extraterrestrial beings of higher intelligence.  This stone has been said to have many healing properties, including cell regeneration when there is a wound or scar tissue; even burns can be cured.  This stone has even been said to make products, such as wrinkle cream or moisturizer more effective if it is left in the preparation.  Rubelite (red variety) tourmalines hold special therapeutic qualities.  They supposedly help increase awareness of your body and free you from impulsive behavior.  Indicolite (blue) is believed to keep off lung diseases.  Yellow tourmaline will serve as an aid when you are sad or depressed,  while polychrome (multi-colored) stones will actually make you more extroverted and sociable.

Tourmaline was the preferred stone of Rene Lalique, master French jewelry designer and one of the finest and most important exponents of the Art Nouveau style in vogue around the turn of the century.

Now let's talk about specifics; different varieties and their prices. Prices of all tourmalines for the last four years have almost doubled due to increased demand from China and production cost in Brazil.

Verdilite (Figure #2):  These are regular green tourmalines that are the most common and range $100-300 per carat.  

Chrome tourmaline (Figure #3): These are a very vivid grass green color and range in price from $400-$700 per carat.  Chrome tourmaline is very similar in color to emerald, and can be used as an alternative to emerald while still achieving a similar look. 

Indicolite tourmaline (Figure #4): This variety is green with a bluish hue, and range from $400-$800 per carat.

There are also pink and red varieties of tourmaline.  

Rubelite tourmaline (Figure #5): This variety has a very hot intense pink color that contain a lot of red.  These are only called rubelite of it continues to display the same intense ruby red color as the light source changes.  Those that change in different light sources are called pink tourmalines.  Pink tourmalines (Figure #6) range from $150-$350 per carat, while rubelite ranges in price from $400-$800 per carat.

Paraiba tourmaline (Figure #7):  This is a very special, unique and extremely rare stone.  It is the most valuable, and comes in a very bright vivid sea blue (see picture).  This fairly new stone was discovered in 1987 in a mine in the village Paraiba, of Brazil.  Paraiba tourmalines from this area have since been depleted and cost anywhere from $20,000-$70,000 per carat making it not only the most valuable tourmaline, but one of the most valuable gems.  There is a new source in Africa, specifically Mozambique, that come in lighter colors and range $3,000-$15,000 in price per carat depending on intensity of color and clarity.  In 2002, Christie's Hong Kong sold a deep pure-blue 8.90 carat Paraiba tourmaline for $30,000 per carat ($270,100 total).  Today, this stone would be worth significantly more.

Tourmaline rates a 7-7.5 on the Mohs scale, making it a very durable stone for everyday wear. 

Today, primary sources for tourmaline are Brazil, various countries in Africa including Mozambique, Namibia, Tanzania, Madagascar and parts of Asia including Russia.

Pictured is a 5.1 carat certified Paraiba tourmaline with diamonds in platinum; designed by Alex Gulko in 2010.

By Viktoriya Gulko