Opal is the Birthstone of October

Opal is the birthstone of October. 

Opal is an incredibly unique stone that has been named the queen of gems by the ancient Romans because it contains all the colors of the other gems.  The name comes from the Sanskrit term "upala", which means "precious stone."  

Opals have historically been considered a very lucky and powerful stone.   It was said to contain the powers of all the other stones, due to its array of colors.  Opal is a stone of inspiration, it brings deep emotions to the forefront, releasing inhibitions and granting its wearer increased confidence and openness. It also helps to focus mental capabilities and provide motivation and energy.  This has been said to be a very spiritual stone, it wards off the evil eye and brings happy dreams while blocking bad dreams from your psyche.   

In 1872, a new source for opal was discovered in Australia.  These opals were much more beautiful than those discovered before and has since then dominated the world markets, and are what pushed an increasingly high demand for this stone.   The incredible display of colors has been a mystery until relatively recently.   With the use of an electron microscope, studies show that opals consist of transparent spheres of silica that are tightly packed.  The spaces between these silica spheres contain only air and water. In precious opal these spheres are uniform in size and precisely packed into an orderly three dimensional arrangement.   The diffraction of light and iridescence that creates the beautiful look of opal that we know today only occurs if the silica spheres are of the correct size and are precisely arranged.  In lesser quality opal the silica spheres are poorly shaped, of incorrect size, and/or not arranged in a regular pattern.  This stone can form only when an undisturbed space in a rock holds a clean solution of silica from which water is slowly removed over thousands of years.

Opals vary according to transparency and body color.   Prices are very subjective, as no two opals are exactly the same.  

White opal (Figure #1): Translucent stones with color play against a white body color, these are most common. Milky white stones with little color play are used in budget jewelry, while finer quality with higher color play can go for $200 to $300 dollars per carat.

Black opal (Figure #2): Stones with a very vivid play of color and iridescence against a black or dark body color.   These highly prized stones are a fairly new discovery and were unknown before the discovery of the legendary Lightning Ridge opal field in Australia in 1903.  This discovery has caused the demand of this stone to skyrocket.   Today top grade black opal can sell for $15,000 a carat.   Some exceptional stones have even sold for $20,000 a carat. 

Crystal opal (Figure #3): This stone is white and very transparent. It's more valuable than white opal and has a lot of bright colors and iridescence.  The difference between white and crystal opal is white opals have a milky look, where crystal opals are more transparent and have more vibrant color play.  Crystal opal is similar to black opal but is light and more transparent.   In its highest qualities, it is valued at more than $2,500 per carat. 

Fire opal (Figure #4): These stones are transparent or semitransparent, resembling gelatin, with orange, yellow, or red body color with or without play of color.  They are sometimes called Mexican opals because most of the best fire opals are found in volcanic rock in Mexico.  This stone is commonly faceted due to its transparency.  The most prized fire opals are reddish orange, transparent and have play of color within the stone; this quality can retail for as much as $300 per carat.  Lower quality stones that are translucent and yellowish or brownish in color may sell for around $5 per carat. 

Boulder opal (Figure #5): Found in rock formations, specifically ironstone.  The opal often forms in small layers within fractures on the surface of the rock.   Rare gem quality boulder opal can sell for $3,000 to $20,000 per piece, but you can get attractive stones for a few hundred dollars.  

Doublet opal (Figure #6): This is a manmade combination of a small layer of natural crystal opal glued on top of ironstone.  Against the dark surface, it looks like black opal.   Doublet opals are significantly less expensive than black opal, but achieves a similar look.  The main difference is doublets are almost always flat, but black opals are domed and smooth with no facets.  This cut is called cabochon; almost all natural opals are cut this way.  These range in price from $200 to $1,000 per piece.  

Opal has a mohs scale of 7, but you must be careful with this stone due to its chemical structure.  This stone is very sensitive to sudden change in temperature. Never clean your opal in an ultrasonic cleanser as it could crack the opal. It is recommended that your opal be worn frequently, the moisture from the wearers skin helps preserve the stone and prevent it from cracking. 

With its multiple benefits and unique beauty, It is no wonder opals have been prized for centuries. What do you find most interesting about this stone? Which variation of opal strikes you the most? 

Pictured is a 5.6 carat natural black opal from lightning ridge in platinum and diamonds.  Ring was designed by Alex Gulko in 2009. 

By Viktoriya Gulko

Sapphire is the birthstone of September

Sapphire is the birthstone of September.

Sapphires are among the most valuable precious gems. The price ranges from a couple hundred to several thousand dollars per carat. They come in all colors of the rainbow, the most valuable being blue, pink and orange, and blue sapphires are the most popular.  The highest quality sapphires are sourced from Sri Lanka; these are called Ceylon sapphires.  Sapphires from Burma are also of high quality but are very rare. Today many come from Madagascar and are generally dark in color.  Some are sourced from Thailand, but have a grey overtone without much brilliance.  This gem is also found in the United States, in the state of Montana but lack a  rich blue color.  Quality is based on color and brilliance.  The closer to a vivid royal blue, with high brilliance, the higher the quality and value.  Some orange sapphires are called padparadscha sapphires, the term is derived from the Sinhalese word for lotus flower.  Padparadscha sapphires are only found in Sri Lanka, and are the rarest of all sapphires.

There has been a recent trend for colored diamonds in engagement rings.  Colored diamonds, such as pink diamonds can come at a very high cost.  Colored sapphires are an excellent substitute.  We have created many engagement rings using colored sapphires to better fit the clients budget.  Sapphires are highly durable stones, they are rated 9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 rating of diamond, and 7-8 of other stones, making them ideal for everyday wear.

Ancient folklore claims the sapphire will give its wearer spiritual enlightenment and inner peace.  In the Middle Ages sapphires were used as an antidote to poison and thought to treat colic and rheumatism as well as ease mental illness.  Members of royalty wore sapphires around their necks to protect from envy, poison and harm. 

Sapphires have been used among royalty for centuries.  A very famous sapphire from recent years is princess Diana’s engagement ring which contains a 18 carat blue Ceylon sapphire surrounded by white diamonds in white gold.  This ring is now worn by Kate Middleton.  Other famous icons that have had sapphire engagement rings include Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Crawford and Jean Harlowe.

There are many different treatments being used today on sapphires.  The only accepted form of treatment for fine jewelry is heat treatment.  All other treatments significantly reduce it’s value.  Recently the beryllium treatment is becoming common, especially in stones coming from Asia.  This is when beryllium is added to sapphires to enhance or change the color.  Other treatments include irradiation, where the color of the stone is changed at a molecular level.  Fracture fills are a temporary and unstable method to make cracks and inclusions less noticeable. This treatment can be removed revealing large and unattractive inclusions it has been masking.  Surface dyes are used to change the color of a stone which also can be easily removed.  Often this treatment is used to pass off an impostor gemstone as a sapphire.  These treatments often go undisclosed so it is important to buy sapphires from a reliable source.

Now let's talk about one of the most important factors; the cut.  There is no standard “ideal” cut for sapphires as there are for diamonds.  Each sapphire is cut individually to bring out the best possible color and brilliance.  Due to this individualized cutting, they generally are not graded by gem laboratories.  As a result jewelers set their own standards for quality which they determine based on color and cut.  There are many stones that are cut too deep or too shallow.  A shallow or bad cut can cause a  very common window effect where you can see through the stone.  If a cut is too deep you are paying more for the weight.  Cut is very important for the overall look which is why we only pick perfectly cut stones. 

By Viktoriya Gulko

The Power of Custom Design "Before and After"

Do you have jewelry that you have inherited or purchased years ago that is outdated or you don’t enjoy wearing?  You can take that jewelry and sell it at a pawn shop for scrap value, or keep the value of the stones and metal and turn it into a beautiful piece of jewelry.  Custom design gives you the opportunity to create something new that fits your style that you will cherish for many years to come. 

One of our clients recently came in with three rings all given by relatives.  The rings were outdated and she didn't enjoy wearing them, but they still held high sentimental value for her.  We were able to combine all the stones from her old rings into a new design that she can enjoy wearing, yet still hold the same sentimental value. 

To celebrate their anniversary, our clients wanted to replace their original engagement ring using their original 0.50 ct marquise diamond.  Our goal was to create a dramatic and substantial looking contemporary ring.  Their concern was that the original diamond not be overpowered by a bolder setting.  The solution was to create a design using pave-set round diamonds under the marquise to achieve the illusion of a larger diamond and balancing out the ring.

A client came in with a precious imperial topaz that she has gotten reset twice, but was never satisfied with the results.  She had always dreamed about having a hand crafted antique style ring, so we designed a unique Victorian style ring for her to showcase her stone.  The stone was not perfectly cut and had a window effect.  We were able to mask this window effect through the use of the setting.  She not only was able to get the antique ring she had always wanted, but was also able to finally enjoy her stones in a design she loved.

Peridot is the Birthstone of August

Peridot is the birthstone of August.

While the exact origin of the name peridot is unknown, many sources state it comes from the Arabic word farodat, meaning gem.  Peridot is one of the few gems that come in one distinctive color.  The most valuable is an intense deep green color.  Peridot is known to make the wearer look younger and more beautiful. 

Peridot was one of Cleopatra's favorite stones.  While many believe Cleopatra's favorite stone was emerald, there is an abundance of archeological evidence that points to what was thought to be emeralds were actually peridot.  Ancient Egyptians called them "gem of the sun" because of its high brilliance under the sun.

Peridot was considered more beautiful than emerald.  It is widely believed that this stone was so beautiful, it was used as the second stone in the high priest's breastplate for the second temple of Jerusalem built in 515 BC, with ruby being the first.

This gemstone was said to glow at night. Ancient minors would search in the evening or night when they said it was easiest to find.  Romans called peridot "evening emerald" because they stayed vibrant and bright under all lighting conditions and did not darken under night sky.

Some have the perception that peridot is not a good stone because they haven't seen it in beautiful quality.  As soon as our clients discover the peridot we carry, they fall in love with the stone forever.

While almost all gemstones are formed in the earth’s crust, peridot is formed much deeper, in the mantle. The only other stone formed in the mantle is diamond.  Peridot is sourced from many places such as China, Burma, and Arizona, but the best come from Pakistan. Although peridot from Pakistan is becoming increasingly rare, we only source ours from this region.

The stone is very transparent, so picking a very clean stone is important as inclusions are more visible than in other stones.

Peridot is a relatively inexpensive stone, for a fine quality stone sized between 3-10 carats you would typically pay $200-500 per carat.  Though finest quality stones from Pakistan over 6 carats are rare.

The pendant pictured is a 13 carat Pakistani peridot in 18k gold with diamonds.  The earrings each contain a 4 carat  Pakistani peridot in 14k gold.

By Viktoriya Gulko

July Birthstone

 

Ruby is the birthstone of July.  

The name comes from the Latin word rubeus, which means red. Rubies have been celebrated in the bible and ancient Sanskrit writings as the most precious stone.  Rubies in Sanskrit were called ratnaraj, which means "King of the precious gems." According to Hindu lore, the vibrant glowing red color of ruby is caused by eternal flames burning within them that cannot be extinguished.  It was claimed that the owner of a ruby was guaranteed a peaceful and harmonious life, as well as brought luck and good fortune.  Rubies are also legendary symbols of everlasting love.  Rubies are very hard and resilient gems, second only to diamonds.

The most valuable rubies are sourced from Burma, but all high quality rubies have been depleted in this area.  The brightest and most valuable red color is called "pigeon blood".  Today many rubies are sourced from Madagascar but their color and brilliance does not come close to Burmese rubies and are worth much less.

A 32.08 carat ruby ring was sold for $6,742,440 at Lily Safra's jewelry auction in 2012.  The auctioned price was the highest ever price for a ruby sold at auction.

Rubies come from the family of corundum.  This is the same family as sapphire.  The intensity and brightness of the color is what differentiates pink sapphires from rubies.  Some dark pink or red sapphires are called rubies but they are not true rubies according to GIA (Gemological Institute of America) standards.  When you buy rubies you must be careful that it is not a sapphire which are less valuable.

Today a lot of rubies have many different treatments.  The only acceptable treatment for fine jewelry is heat treatment.  All other treatments are highly disapproved of and significantly reduce the value of the stone.  Such treatments, for instance include inserting glass pieces to fill up small gaps left after the cut.  There are also many synthetics on today's market.  Falsifications can only be identified by a professional.  This is another reason why it is crucial to buy rubies from an expert.

Pictured is a fine 3 carat Burmese certified pigeon blood ruby surrounded by diamonds and rubies in 18k gold.

By Viktoriya Gulko

Alex named one of the best Ukrainian Jewelers by the Fund Faberge

 

We recently discovered that Alex Gulko is named one of the best Ukrainian jewelers by the reputable and widely known Fund Faberge in St. Petersburg based on a collection he created years ago in Ukraine. Parts of the collection were included in international exhibitions held in Hungary and Yugoslavia and state exhibitions held in Ukraine. Some of the pieces were featured in catalogs and posters of these exhibitions.

Several pieces of this collection were purchased for display by the most famous museum in Ukraine, The National Ukrainian Museum of Historical Treasures. This museum holds the largest collection of artifacts made from precious metals and stones including work created by old Scythians tribes, historical Ukrainian goldsmiths, 17th-19th century Russian jewelers, and modern Ukrainian jewelers. The museum also puts on exhibitions all around the world. In the late 80’s the museum began displaying contemporary jewelry. The museum has a page on their website dedicated to the best jewelers they have featured. There are only six artists on this page, Alex being one of them.

Part of Alex’s collection was brought to the United States and is currently displayed in his store.

By Viktoriya Gulko

Fund Faberge list:
http://skurlov.blogspot.com/2011/12/2012.html
See: "ГУЛЬКО Александр Абрамович - родился в 1955 г. в Киев"

Museum page of contemporary jewelry: http://miku.org.ua/ru/yvelirnoe_iskusstvo/ukraina/ukrainskie_mastera-yveliri_70-90.html

More about the museum: http://www.wumag.kiev.ua/index2.php?param=pgs20062%2F20

 

June Birthstone

Alexandrite is the birthstone of June. 

Alexandrite is one of the most if not the most unique, rare and valuable stone, known as the color changing stone.  The color of the stone changes drastically depending on what lighting it is under.  The more drastic the color change the higher the quality.  In its finest qualities, alexandrite looks green in sunlight, and purplish red under incandescent lights.

The gem was first discovered in the Ural Mountains of Russia in 1830 on the 12th birthday of the Czar Alexander II.  Due to its representation of both Russian imperial colors- red and green- it became the national stone of tsarist Russia.  In Russia, alexandrite is considered to be of very good omen.  It brings balance in the interaction between the physical and spiritual world.  It opens the crown chakra, which gives access to the healing energy and love from the universe.  It is also said to strengthen intuition, creativity and encourage romance.

Prices for natural alexandrite start at $1,500 per carat and can go over $20,000 per carat depending on size and quality.  Alex is currently working on a ring for a client with a very fine quality alexandrite.  Alex was able to acquire the stone from a close source at a gem show resulting in thousands of dollars in savings for his client.  This stone holds the same color changing qualities of the finest alexandrite.

Today the finest alexandrite stones are sourced from Brazil.  There are alexandrite stones which come from Asia and Africa that are lesser quality and retail at a much lower price point.

Alexandrite is the most valuable and exotic variety of chrysoberyl.  Not all color changing chrysoberyl can be called an alexandrite.  When buying an alexandrite, you must be careful that it is not mistaken for a regular color changing chrysoberyl, which displays different color change.

Pictured is a very fine Russian Alexandrite.  To the right is a fine 2 carat Brazilian alexandrite ring with diamonds in platinum.

By Viktoriya Gulko